Maci is a cute top-down, seamless crochet top worked in a bamboo blend yarn with a lace yoke and ruffle. This design has a lovely drape, loose sleeves and pretty edgings making it one of our favorites from this issue.
Time: Weekend Project
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Finished Bust Size 33.25 (37, 39.5, 41.5, 43.5, 46.75) (49, 51, 53.25, 55.5)” to fit bust 32/34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44/46) (48, 50, 52, 54)”
Shown in size 36”
Gauge: 14 sts and 9 rows = 4” [10 cm] using a 4.5mm hook in dc st and working in the round (after gentle steam blocking)
Materials
Yarn: King Cole Bamboo Cotton (50% Bamboo Viscose, 50% Cotton; 252 yards [230 meters]/100 grams): Color 618 Dusty Pink (MC 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6, 6) balls)
Hook/Needles: US size G/6 (4.0 mm) hook, US size 7, (4.5 mm) hook
Notions: Markers, yarn needle
Abbreviations
Fdc – foundation double crochet
Special Stitches
1 Shell – 5 dc into ch-sp
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked in the round from the top down with a lace yoke, raglan shaping is then added before dividing for the sleeves. The body of the top is then completed and the yarn is joined back to the underarm to complete the sleeves, which are loose and floaty. Finally, a ruffle is worked into the chain stitches formed in the front loop on one round of the yoke.
Pattern
With 4.0 mm hook, Fdc 96 (96, 96, 96, 96, 104) (104, 104, 104, 104), sl st into the first st to form a ring being careful not to twist work. Use tail end of chain to neaten seam.
Change to 4.5 mm hook and continue as follows;
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1 here and throughout), *skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * to last st, skip last st, sl st into 3rd ch at beg rd. 48 (48, 48, 48, 48, 52) (52, 52, 52, 52) ch-sps
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *sc into next ch-sp, sc in next st, rep from * to last ch-sp, sc into ch-sp, sl st in first st at beg rd. 96 (96, 96, 96, 96, 104) (104, 104, 104, 104) sts
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), dc into each st around, sl st into top 3rd ch at beg rd.
Round 4: Ch 3, *skip 1 st, sc next st, ch 3, rep from * around, dc into sl st at beg rd. 48 (48, 48, 48, 48, 52) (52, 52, 52, 52) ch-sps
Round 5: Sl st into first ch-3 sp (PM this as first ch-sp), *Ch 3, sc next ch-sp, rep from * around, ending with last sc in sl st at beg rd.
Round 6: Sl st into first ch-3 sp (PM), *[ch 3, sc next ch-sp] 2 times, 5 dc next ch-sp (counts 1 Shell), sc next ch-sp, rep from * around working last sc into sl st at beg rd. 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 13) (13, 13, 13, 13) shells and 24 (24, 24, 24, 24, 26) (26, 26, 26, 26) ch-3 sps
Round 7: Sl st into first ch-3 sp (PM), *ch 3, sc next ch-sp, ch 3, sc first dc, [ch 3, skip 1 dc, sc next dc] 2 times, ch 3, sc next ch-sp, rep from * around working last sc in sl st at beg rd. 60 (60, 60, 60, 60, 65) (65, 65, 65, 65) sps
Round 8: Sl st into first ch-3 sp (PM), *ch 3, sc next ch-sp, rep from * around working last sc in sl st at beg of rd.
Round 9: Sl st into first ch-sp, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp (counts 1 Shell), *sc next ch-sp, [ch 3, sc into next ch-sp] 3 times, make 1 Shell in next ch-sp, rep from * to last 4 ch-sps, sc next ch-sp, [ch 3, sc next ch-sp] 3 times, sl st into 3rd ch at beg rd. 36 (36, 36, 36, 36, 39) (39, 39, 39, 39) ch-3 sps, 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 13) (13, 13, 13, 13) shells
Round 10: *[ch 3, skip 1 dc, sc next dc] 2 times, [ch 3, sc next ch-sp] 3 times, ch 3, sc next dc, rep from * around ending with last sc in top first st in rd. 72 (72, 72, 72, 72, 78) (78, 78, 78, 78) sps
Round 11: Sl st into first ch-sp (PM), *ch 3, sc next ch-sp, rep from * around working last sc into first sl st at beg of rd.
Round 12: Sl st into first ch-3 sp, ch 3, 1 dc into same sp (counts 2 dc), *ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-sp, rep from * around ending with 1 ch, sl st into top 3rd ch at beg rd. 216 (216, 216, 216, 216, 234) (234, 234, 234, 234) sts
Round 13: Ch 3, dc in each st in rd, sl st top ch 3 at beg rd.
Round 14: Ch 4, skip 1 st, *dc in next st, 1 ch, skip 1 st, rep from * around, sl st top 3rd ch at beg rd.
Round 15: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc in each st and ch-sp around, sl st top first st in rd.
Round 16: Ch 3, dc in each st in rd, sl st top ch-3 at beg rd.
Round 17: Mark back loop of first st with SM, *ch 3, skip 1 st, scFL next st, rep from * around ending with last sc in BL of first st (marked with SM). Move SM up into first 3ch-sp to mark beginning position of Ruffle. 108 (108, 108, 108, 108, 117) (117, 117, 117, 117) sps
Round 18: Working in BL only under frill, ch 3, 1 dcBL same sp, *skip 1 st, 2 dcBL next st, rep from * to last st, skip last st, sl st top ch 3 at beg rd. 216 (216, 216, 216, 216, 234) (234, 234, 234, 234) sts
RAGLAN SHAPING
For Size 1 only
Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in top 3rd ch at beg rd. 216 sts. Continue to Raise Back instructions.
For sizes – (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) (7, 8, 9, 10) only
Ch 3, 1 dc in first st (counts 2 dc), -(54, 54, 54, 54, 61) (61, 61, 61, 61) dc, 3 dc in next st, pm 2nd of these 3 sts, -(52, 52, 52, 52, 54) (54, 54, 54, 54) dc, 3 dc in next st, pm 2nd of these 3 sts, -(54, 54, 54, 54, 61) (61, 61, 61, 61) dc, 3 dc in next, pm 2nd of these 3 sts, -(52, 52, 52, 52, 54) (54, 54, 54, 54) dc, dc into base of first st in rd (marked with SM), sl st into top ch 3 at beg rd. –(224, 224, 224, 224, 242) (242, 242, 242, 242) sts
Work -(1, 1, 0, 0, 1) (1, 0, 0, 0) rd(s) in dc st without shaping, moving each SM up as you work.
For Size 2 only
224 sts, Continue to Raise Back instructions.
For sizes – (-, 3, 4, 5, 6) (7, 8, 9, 10) only
Ch 3, 1 dc in first st (counts 2 dc), *dc to SM, 3 dc in SM stitch, (PM 2nd of these 3 sts), rep from * two more times, dc to end working 1 dc into base of first st in rd, sl st into top ch-3 at beg rd. (PM this st at first st in rd). – (-, 232, 232, 232, 250) (250, 250, 250, 250) sts
Repeat last Round – (-, 0, 1, 2, 1) (2, 3, 4, 5) more times.
– (-, 232, 240, 248, 258) (266, 274, 282, 290) sts. Continue to Raise Back instructions.
RAISE BACK
Ch 3 (PM as first st in rd), 55 (57, 59, 61, 63, 68) (70, 72, 74, 76) dc. Fasten off yarn.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn back to first st marked with SM. (If you wish to raise the back more than 1cm work extra row(s) at this point (repeating the last row), remember to pick up extra sts when working Sleeve and make decreases to keep stitch count correct.)
DIVIDE FOR SLEEVES
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 55 (57, 59, 61, 63, 68) (70, 72, 74, 76) dc, ch 4 (8, 10, 12, 14, 14) (16, 18, 20, 22) for underarm, skip 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 60) (62, 64, 66, 68) sts for Sleeve, dc next 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 69) (71, 73, 75, 77) sts, ch 4 (8, 10, 12, 14, 14) (16, 18, 20, 22) for underarm, skip 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 60) (62, 64, 66, 68) sts for Sleeve, sl st top ch-3 at beg rd.
120 (132, 140, 148, 156, 166) (174, 182, 190, 198) sts for Body.
BODY
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into each st and ch in rd, sl st top ch-3 at beg rd. PM first st in rd and move SM up as you work.120 (132, 140, 148, 156, 166) (174, 182, 190, 198) sts
Work 18 (18, 18, 19, 19, 20) (20, 21, 21, 22) more rds in dc st. Add more rds here for a longer length top, increased yarn amounts will be needed for any extra length.
EDGING
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), *skip 1 dc, dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * to last st, skip last st, sl st 3rd ch at beg rd. 60 (66, 70, 74, 78, 83) (87, 91, 95, 99) sps
Round 2: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, sc into ch-sp, sc into each st and ch-sp around, sl st top first st in rd.
Round 3: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, ch 1, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, *(1 sc, ch 1) in next st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, rep from * around, sl st into first dc at beg rd.
Fasten off.
SLEEVES
RIGHT SLEEVE
RS facing and 4.5mm hook, join yarn with a sl st to 3rd (5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 8th) (9th, 10th, 11th, 12th) ch at underarm, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into next 1 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 9, 10) ch sts, 1 dc into row end, dc into each of next 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 60) (62, 64, 66, 68) skipped sts for Sleeve, 3 dc into row ends of Raise Back (making sure to place one st in the corner to avoid gaping), dc into next 2 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11) ch sts at underarm, sl st into 3rd ch at beg rd. 60 (66, 70, 74, 78, 78) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts
Work 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) (5, 6, 6, 7) more rds in dc st.
EDGING
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), *skip 1 dc, dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * to last st, skip last st, sl st 3rd ch at beg rd.
Round 2: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, sc into ch-sp, sc into each st and ch-sp around, sl st top first st in rd.
Round 3: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, ch 1, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, *(1 sc, ch 1) in next st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, rep from * around, sl st into first dc at beg rd.
Fasten off.
LEFT SLEEVE
RS facing and 4.5mm hook, join yarn with a sl st to 3rd (5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 8th) (9th, 10th, 11th, 13th) ch at underarm, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into next 1 (3, 4, 5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 9, 11) sts, 3 dc into row ends of Raise Back (making sure to place one st in the corner to avoid gaping), dc into each of next 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 60) (62, 64, 66, 66) skipped sts for Sleeve, 1 dc into row end, dc into next 2 (4, 5, 6, 7, 7) (8, 9, 10, 12) ch sts at underarm, sl st into 3rd ch at beg rd. 60 (66, 70, 74, 78, 78) (82, 86, 90, 94) sts
Work 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) (5, 6, 6, 7) rds in dc st.
EDGING
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), *skip 1 dc, dc in next st, ch 1, rep from * to last st, skip last st, sl st 3rd ch at beg rd.
Round 2: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, sc into ch-sp, sc into each st and ch-sp around, sl st top first st in rd.
Round 3: Ch 1 (not counted as st), sc into first st, ch 1, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, *(1 sc, ch 1) in next st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st, rep from * around, sl st into first dc at beg rd.
Fasten off.
YOKE RUFFLE
Return to first ch-3 sp at front of yoke (marked with SM) and join yarn with a sl st.
Round 1: Ch 1, (1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1) in first ch-3 sp, *(1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1) in next ch-3 sp, rep from * around, sl st into first sc at beg rd. 432 (432, 432, 432, 432, 468) (468, 468, 468, 468) sts
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in all yarn ends neatly.
Gently steam block work and lay flat to dry.
Under the heading raglan shaping, the last row of that section gives me a stitch count of 232 stitches. Under the divide for sleeves section, when I add up the dc stitches plus the skipped stitches, I get 216 stitches. This leaves a gap of 16 stitches. What is happening here? Have I missed something or misunderstood the pattern in a major way. I’m sick of pulling it out and trying to get it right. I need some help here please. Thank you.
Hi! The designer would like to know which size you are working on. Let me know and I can pass that information along to her. I can also pass along your email address if you would like, she is happy to communicate with you directly. – Nicola, Editor
In the divide for sleeves bit, I can’t make it make sense. Do I crochet over the raised back or not? The counts font seem to work. I’m feeling frustrated. Is there any help available ?
I’m currently making this top but there are parts I feel unsure about. Do you have a video tutorial or even some photos that show how to do the tricky bits?
Could this be provided as a pdf? I prefer to work from a printed copy.
Hello Candace! We currently do not allow downloads of our patterns, but are exploring options in the near future. You are welcome to save this pattern by copying and pasting into a word document or by printing the pattern via the printer icon on the left hand side of your screen. Hope this helps! – Nicola, Editor
I love the look of this sweater and I would like to make it but, I have some questions. What does PM and SM stand for and what is the “Raise Back”? I have never heard these terms before in crochet and I have been crocheting since I was a kid. Please explain.
Hello Lori! I’ve reached out to the designer for advice and she or I will reply as soon as possible. Thanks! – Nicola, Editor
Hi Lori,
SM stands for Stitch Marker and PM is Place Marker. If you see PM, just pop a stitch marker in this stitch and it will help with the instructions as it marks a significant point in the garment.
‘Raise Back’ is an extra one or two rows worked on the back stitches only, just to lift the back of the garment so that it sits better on the body and doesn’t ride up at the back. Hope this helps – Simone
I like this sweater
Thank you, Virginia!
On the body part of the pattern, is that work as continous rounds or do I need to join every round?
Hello! I’ve reached out to the designer for advice and she or I will reply as soon as possible. Thanks! – Nicola, Editor
Hi Tricia,
You will need to join your rounds, this will keep the continuity of the pattern and give the best results.
Thank you!
How do you download the instructions for this sweater?
Thank you,
Elaine Curtiss
Hello Elaine! We currently do not allow downloads of our patterns, but are exploring options in the near future. You are welcome to save this pattern by copying and pasting into a word document or by printing the pattern via the printer icon on the left hand side of your screen. Hope this helps! – Nicola, Editor