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Flying Colors Shawl Crochet Pattern

Wrap yourself in the beauty of flight—elevate your style with the Flying Colors Shawl!

Spread your wings and make a bold statement with the Flying Colors Shawl, an exquisite crescent-shaped wrap that’s as graceful as it is vibrant. Inspired by the delicate texture of bird feathers, this design combines intricate stitchwork with a fluid drape to create a shawl that’s truly breathtaking. The pattern’s unique shape ensures it stays securely on your shoulders without the need for a shawl pin, making it as practical as it is stylish.

Perfect for advanced beginners and beyond, this project offers a satisfying opportunity to master textured stitches while creating a piece that’s as functional as it is beautiful. Experiment with color gradients or variegated yarns for a dynamic, multicolored effect, or use solid shades for a more refined, classic look.

Skill Level: Advanced 

Size: 13.5” deep at widest point and 100” wide from tip to tip measured along curve (after blocking) 

Gauge: 23 stitches = 4” in FPsc rib before blocking; Rows 6-9 (one pattern repeat) measures 2.5” at corner end before blocking; (Due to the method of construction, typical row gauge cannot be given) 

Materials

Yarn:

Super Fine Weight Yarn Lang Yarns Jawoll Magic (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon; 437 yards [400 meters]/100 grams): #84.0066 (MC, 2 balls)

Super Fine Weight Yarn Cascade Yarns Heritage Sock Yarn (75% superwash merino wool, 25% nylon; 437 yards [400 meters]/100 grams): #5605 Plum (CC, 1 ball)

Hook: US size E/4 (3.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Tapestry needle

Abbreviations

FPsc: Front post single crochet
Rsc: Reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

Pattern Notes

Shawl is worked in rows that increase in height across their width by gradually increasing stitch height, with ribs in a contrasting color created from single crochet and front post single crochet.  As the stitches become taller and taller they can become looser than the shorter stitches at the beginning of each row, but this is not a concern as the sc and FPsc ribs tighten the work back up, and any remaining unevenness is removed with blocking.
The contrasting rib yarn is unbroken, dropped and picked back up after each shawl segment.  The main color segments stagger over after each rib to create the crescent shape, so the yarn is broken after each segment and reattached to eliminate floats across the back of the work.
The integral corner has a unique construction in order to keep the edging color continuous.  Also, the chain stitches running down the center of the corner help stabilize the corner and add structure to counteract the looseness of the tall stitches.  A symbol chart is provided for the corner to aid in construction.
Blocking Note: When blocking, to avoid overstretching the corners it is recommended to pin out to the ends of the CC FPsc ribs first, then after the shawl body is pinned out, pin the tips of the corners.

Pattern

With CC, ch 94.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (93 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, FPsc around next 92 sc, sl st in last sc, tie off yarn so stitches will not unravel and drop CC.
Row 3: Turn, sk sl st and first FPsc, join MC with sl st in 2nd FPsc, sc in next 15 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, dc in next 15 sts, tr in next 15 sts, dtr in next 15 sts, trtr in next 15 sts.

Corner

Right side facing for entire corner,
Step 1: Do not turn, rotate work 180 degrees, ch 15.
Step 2: Working back across ch just made, sk first ch, sl st in back bump of next 5 ch, ch 5.
Step 3: Continuing to work across back bump of initial corner ch, trtr in next 9 ch, join with sl st in first FPsc from Row 2 (at base of last trtr from Row 3).
Step 4: Do not turn, Rsc in next 8 trtr, 2 Rsc in next trtr, rotate work counter-clockwise 90 degrees, Rsc in next 5 ch, Rsc in next 5 sl st, join with a sl st in top of ch skipped in Step 1. 

Row 4: Turn, working across other side of ch from Corner Step 1, trtr in next 9 ch, trtr in next 7 trtr from Row 3, dtr in next 15 sts, tr in next 15 sts, dc in next 15 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, sc in next 15 sts, sl st in next 3 sts, fasten off MC.
Row 5: Turn, pick up CC, ch 1, sk first sl st from Row 2, sc in each st across.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, FPsc around next 100 sc, sl st in next 3 sc, tie off yarn so stitches will not unravel and drop CC, leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 7: Turn, sk 3 sl st and 9 FPsc, join MC with a sl st in 10th FPsc, sc in next 15 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, dc in next 15 sts, tr in next 15 sts, dtr in next 15 sts, trtr in next 15 sts.

Corner

Right side facing for entire corner
Step 1: Do not turn, rotate work 180 degrees, ch 15.
Step 2: Working back across ch just made, sk first ch, sl st in back bump of next 5 ch, ch 5.
Step 3: Continuing to work across back bump of initial corner ch, trtr in next 9 ch, join with sl st in first FPsc from Row 6 (at base of last trtr from Row 7).
Step 4: Do not turn, Rsc in next 8 trtr, 2 Rsc in next trtr, rotate work counter-clockwise 90 degrees, Rsc in next 5 ch, Rsc in next 5 sl st, join with a sl st in top of ch skipped in Step 1. 

Row 8: Turn, working across other side of ch from Corner Step 1, trtr in next 9 ch, trtr in next 7 trtr from Row 7, dtr in next 15 sts, tr in next 15 sts, dc in next 15 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, sc in next 15 sts, sl st in next 3 sts, fasten off MC.
Row 9: Turn, pick up CC, ch 1, sk first sl st from Row 6, sl st in next 10 sts, sc in next st, sc in MC joining sl st from Row 7, sc in each st across.
Rows 10-109: Repeat Rows 6-9 (including corner), 25 times.
Row 110: Repeat Row 6.
Row 111: Turn, continuing with CC, sl st in each st across. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.
Wet block to schematic dimensions. See blocking note.

 


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Comments
  • Marion B.

    OH, the use of stitch markers would have been a good suggestion! And I rarely use them because I usually can visualize the pattern. But with the 15 stitches of different types, it definitely helps in counting AND in finding the sl st at the end of a row. Just trying to make a beautiful shawl pattern more doable!!!

    Reply
  • Marion B.

    More detail should be included when changing from MC to CC. I am having trouble counting the 100 FPsc. And the numbering from 6-9 is confusing with 7 & 9 seeming to be or is it 6 & 9 that are the first row of CC! A stitch diagram would help for this end as well as the corner! You should really review and have a person who didn’t create the pattern make it before publishing it. As an experienced Crocheter (over 60 years of complex stitching & patterns) this pattern is one of the most confusing! Do you need volunteers or paid testers for your patterns?

    Reply
    • Christy P.

      Thank you so much for your feedback. I will definitely check with our team about adding testers in the future!

      Reply
  • Susan A.

    I’m a gold club member, but every time I try to download a gold club free chart or schematic nothing comes up. Am I doing something wrong?

    Reply
    • Nicola P.

      Hello! We are working with our tech team to fix this, thank you for your patience in the meantime! – Nicola, Editor

      Reply
  • Michelle N.

    I don’t understand what to do when it says to repeat rows 6-9. Do I go back to the first corner pattern? Or, do I work from the second corner pattern from row 3?

    Reply

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