As the summer heat slowly fades into cooler temperatures, this lovely multi-colored sweater is just what you need to stay warm. The Changing Seasons Sweater is created with a lovely scalloped and ribbed design to flatter any figure and features shades of browns, reds and purples. Button accents at the waist and cuff areas also add fashionable flair to this design.
Skill Level: Advanced
Size: Bust Size to fit bust 34” (scalloped pattern allows for 1″ ease in sizing)
Gauge: 15 sc sts x 17 rows = 4” [10 cm]
Materials
Yarn:
Caron Simply Soft Paints (100% acrylic; 208 yards [190 meters]/113.4 grams): #0008 Color Sunset (5 skeins)
Hook: US size K/10.5 (6 mm)
Notions: Stitch Markers, scissors, tapestry or yarn needle, three 3/4” buttons, six 1/2″ buttons, sewing needle & thread
Special Stitches
Scallop: [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc].
Beginning scallop (only at beginning of new round): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), [dc, ch 1, 2 dc].
Beginning Scallop increase (only at beginning of new round): [Ch 4, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc] (creates 5 gaps at ch1 space).
Scallop increase: [1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (creates 5 gaps at ch1 space)
In the row following the scallop increase, you will work a scallop into each ch1 space of shell increase, creating six more scallops at each increase.
Sl st end – Used in connecting ribbed sleeve section to scalloped sleeve section, also waistband to ribbed waist section. When the end of the ribbed row ends next to the scalloped sleeve or waistband, you will sl st to secure that row to that section (you will have as many vertical ribbed rows as you have horizontal stitches to work from) – will not count in stitch count.
Sl st begin: Also used in connecting ribbed rows, this will begin your new row when the row begins next to the scalloped sleeve or waistband area. Will not count in stitch count, and no ch 1 is needed at the beginning of these rows.
Pattern Notes
With the exception of the ribbed sections for the lower sleeves & lower waist sections, pattern will be worked in rounds, as noted, from the neck down. The ribbed patterns will be worked in turning rows, worked vertically, perpendicular to the horizontal rounds.
Pattern
Shoulder Area
Ch 85. Sl st to join, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to sc to join, turn. (85 stitches at end of round)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *1 sc in first st, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] (scallop) in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in next st, sk 2 st, scallop in next stitch, sk 2 st; rep from * around to end of round, sl st to sc to join, turn. (14 scallops at end of round)
Stitch markers: Place first stitch marker to mark beginning of row at 1 sc space. Count over 7 scallops & place 2nd stitch marker at the 1 sc between the 7th and 8th scallops. You should have 7 scallops between each stitch marker. These marked stitches will be where you create your scallop increases to widen the shoulder areas.
Rnd 3: 1 sl st to return to sc of previous row, [ch 4, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] (beginning scallop increase) in sc of previous round (1st stitch marker), sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch 1 space of previous round, skip 2 st, scallop in next st, skip 2 st; from * 5 more times to to 2nd stitch marker, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, dc] (scallop increase), sk 2 st, rep again from * 5 more times to end of round, sl st to ch3 space at beginning scallop increase to join, turn. (2 scallop increases with 6 scallops in between each increase on each side)
Rnd 4: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, 1 beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, scallop in next stitch, sk 2 st; rep from * 4 more times, 1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sk 2 st, *1 scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, skip 2 st; rep from * 5 more times,1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sl st to ch 2 space of beginning scallop to join, turn. (18 scallops at end of round)
Rnd 5: 1 sl st to return to sc of previous row, beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space of previous round, skip 2 st, scallop increase in next st, skip 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, *scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch1 space ; rep from * 7 more times, scallop increase in next st, sk 2 st, rep again from * 6 more times to end of round, sl st to ch3 space at beginning scallop increase to join, turn. (2 scallop increases with 8 scallops in between each increase on each side)
Rnd 6: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, scallop in next stitch, sk 2 st; rep from * 5 more times,1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sk 2 st, *1 scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, skip 2 st; rep from * rep 7 more times, 1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sk 2 st, 1 scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, sl st to ch 2 space of beginning scallop to join, turn. (22 scallops)
Rnd 7: 1 sl st to return to sc of previous row, beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space of previous round, skip 2 st, scallop in next st, sk 2 st, scallop increase in next st, skip 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, *scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch1 space ; rep from * 9 more times, scallop increase in next st, sk 2 st, rep again from * 8 more times to end of round, sl st to ch3 space at beginning scallop increase to join, turn. (2 scallop increases with 10 scallops in between each increase on each side)
Rnd 8: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, scallop in next stitch, sk 2 st; rep from * 6 more times,1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sk 2 st, *1 scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, skip 2 st; rep from * rep 9 more times, 1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next st, 1 sc in 1st ch 1 space of scallop increase, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 2nd ch 1 space, 1 sc in 3rd ch 1 space, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in 4th ch 1 space, 1 sc in 5th ch 1 space, sk 2 st, 1 scallop in next st, sk 2 st, 1 sc in ch 1 space, 1 scallop in next space, sk 2 st, sl st to ch 2 space of beginning scallop to join, turn. (26 scallops)
Rnds 9-15: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, beginning scallop in 1st st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch 1 space, sk 2 st, scallop in next stitch, sk 2 st; rep from * around to end of round, sl st to ch 2 space of beginning scallop to join, turn. (26 scallops)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Identifying Sweater Parts
By this point you should be able to see where the shoulders will be (where created your scallop increases). When you lay the piece flat with a shoulder on each side as if you were wearing it, you should see 13 scallops across the bottom. Counting in from the left side, place your 1st stitch marker between the 3rd & 4th scallop from the left, & your 2nd stitch marker between the 3rd & 4th from the right side. This will leave you 7 scallops in between the stitch markers, & 3 scallops on each side on the outer ends. Flip the piece over & repeat this process with 2 more stitch markers on the other side. Now you should have 7 scallops in between each stitch marker on the front, 7 scallops in between on the back side, & 6 scallops around from front to back on each side. The areas with 7 scallops will be the start of the front & back of your sweater, & the 6 scallop areas are where we will create the sleeves.
Forming Beginning of Sleeve Openings and Division from Upper Body
Flip the sweater piece back around so your last scallop row is on top. Starting with a SL ST at your stitch marker stitch on the left side, chain 12. SL ST the other end to the stitch marker directly behind it, making sure to keep the chain straight (there will be 6 scallops between the outer starting point & ending point of this chain). This will be your 1st divider between the body & arm hole, & where you will build your sleeve. You will repeat process on other side between the other 2 stitch markers to create the other body/arm hole divider. Both the remainder of the upper body, and the beginning of each arm will be created using these 2 chained sections. At this point you will complete the scalloped upper body portion, and return to create the arms after this section in finished.
Upper Body
You will begin building the upper body section between the arm holes, starting with the stitch where the stitch marker is placed closest to you on the right. Work your rounds across the scallop round as before, only when you come to the joining of the chain 12, continue the round across the chain, back onto the original round for 7 scallops, then across the other chain 12 to join back to the beginning of the round. The remaining upper body will be built off of this new round.
Rnd 1: 1 beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch1 space of previous round, sk 2 st, scallop in next st; rep from * around to last 2 st, skip 2 st, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, turn. (18 scallops at end of round)
Rnds 2-10: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, 1 beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch1 space of previous round, sk 2 st, scallop in next st; rep from * around to last 2 st, skip 2 st, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, turn. (18 scallops)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Upper Sleeves
Starting at the point on one of the sleeve openings at the 1 sc space where the shoulder section meets the chain 12 you created to work the upper body section. You will create the sleeves working around the 6 scallops on the outer portions of the marked areas, working along the area where you previously created the chained section, working back around to the other side to connect the round and create the beginning of your first sleeve.
Rnd 1: 1 beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch1 space of previous round, sk 2 st, scallop in next st; rep from * around to last 2 st, skip 2 st, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, turn. (8 scallops at end of round)
Rnds 2-24: 1 sl st to sc of previous row, 1 beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sc in ch1 space of previous round, sk 2 st, scallop in next st; rep from * around to last 2 st, skip 2 st, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, turn. (8 scallops)
Rnd 25: Ch 1, 1 sc in each dc only of previous row (sk each sc and ch1 space), sl st to join, turn. (decreasing row, 32 stitches)
Rnd 26: Ch 1, *1 sc in first 3 st, sk 1 st; rep from * around to last st, skip last st, sl st to join. (decreasing row, 24 stitches)
Lower Sleeve Ribbing Base
These 2 rows are made to create a small decrease in the number of stitches in the sleeve row before creating the ribbed sleeves.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each dc, skipping each sc and ch 1 spce, sl st to join, turn. (32 stitches in round)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in first 3 st, *sk 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st; rep from * in each st around, skipping last st, sl st to join, turn. (24 sts)
Lower Sleeve Ribbing
These ribbed rows will be worked in turning rows, worked vertically, perpendicular to the horizontal rounds. Begin rows at the inside area of each sleeve.
Ch 21.
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd loop from hook, 1 sc in each st across, sl st end, sl st begin, turn. (20 sts in row (not counting sl sts))
Row 2: 1 sc in flo of each st across, turn. (20 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in flo of each st across, sl st end, sl st begin, turn. (20 sts)
Repeat alternating Row 2/Row 3 sequence for a total of 24 rows.
Use tapestry needle to sew beginning & ending sleeve ribbed rows together to join. Be sure to align each side stitch to stitch to keep each side even and straight.
Sleeve Edging
Begin at inner wrist area where sleeve seam was sewn. On the edging, where you previously placed 1 sc in between each scallop, you will place 1 sl st instead to make each scallop more defined.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc at the end of each ribbed row, sl st to join, turn. (24 stitches in round)
Rnd 2: 1 beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sl st in next st, sk 2 st, scallop in next st, skip 2 st; rep from * around to last 2 st, skip last 2 st, sl st to join. (4 scallops)
Fasten off and weave ends in.
Repeat process of upper sleeve, lower sleeve ribbing, and sleeve edging to create the other sleeve.
Empire Waistband
Begin with the outside of the sweater facing you, working off of the last scalloped row in the upper body section. The fpsc rows will create a horizontal raised rib effect on the top and bottom of the waistband.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc each stitch around, sl st to join, turn. (120 stitches in round)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 1 fpsc in each stitch around, sl st to join, turn. (120 stitches)
Rnds 3-8: Repeat round 1. (120 stitches)
Rnd 9: Repeat round 2. (120 stitches)
Fasten off and weave ends in.
Lower Waist Ribbing
Begin this row working off of the last round of waistband, directly under the center of the underarm area. This ribbed section is also worked perpendicular to the waistband. You will be working 6 hdc rows on each side (12 rows total), with 2 sc rows in between each hdc row. It is recommended to use stitch markers to mark the 12 HDC rows, to help you know where to do your edging increases.
Ch 41, turn.
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in 2nd loop from hook, 1 sc in each st across, sl st end, sl st begin, turn. (40 stitches in row (not counting sl sts)
Row 2: 1 hdc in flo of each st across, turn. (40 stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in flo of each st across, sl st end, sl st begin, turn. (40 stitches)
Row 4: 1 sc in flo of each st across, turn. (40 stitches)
Row 5: Ch 1, 1 hdc in flo of each st across, turn, sl st to end, sl st to begin, turn. (40 stitches)
Row 6: 1 sc in flo of each st across, turn. (40 stitches)
Row 7: Repeat row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 8: Repeat row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Rows 9-46: Repeat Row 3/Row 4 sequence. (40 sc stitches)
Row 47: Repeat Row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 48: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 49: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 50: Repeat Row 5. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 51: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 52: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 53: Repeat Row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 54: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 55: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 56: Repeat Row 5. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 57: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 58: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 59: Repeat Row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 60: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 61: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 62: Repeat Row 5. (40 hdc stitches)
Rows 63-100: Repeat Row 3/Row 4 sequence. (40 sc stitches)
Row 101: Repeat Row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 102: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 103: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 104: Repeat Row 5. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 105: Repeat Row 4. (40 sc stitches)
Row 106: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Row 107: Repeat Row 2. (40 hdc stitches)
Row 108: Repeat Row 3. (40 sc stitches)
Use tapestry needle to sew beginning & ending ribbed waist rows together to join. Be sure to align each side stitch to stitch to keep each side even and straight.
Hem Edging
Here you will first create a straight row to work off of along the bottom hem of the sweater. On the final edging row, where you previously placed 1 sc in between each scallop, you will place 1 sl st instead to make each scallop more defined.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, place 1 sc in each sc row, and 2 sc in each hdc row around, sl st to join, turn. (116 stitches in round)
Rnd 2: Beginning scallop in first st, sk 2 st, *1 sl st in next st, skip 2 st, scallop in next st, sk 2 st; Rep from * around to end of round, sl st to join. (20 shells)
Collar
Work this row on the original starting row of the sweater (very first chain row created), connecting your yarn to outer edge of collar.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each stitch across, sl st to join. (85 stitches in round)
Fasten off and weave ends in.
Finishing
3/4″ buttons: Laying the front side of the sweater towards you, you will take the 3/4″ buttons and place them along the ribbed waistband that divides the scalloped top from the ribbed bottom. You will place 1 button in the very center, and 1 on each side of the center button, about midway between the center and the underarm edge. Sew buttons on using sewing needle and thread to secure.
1/2″ buttons: These buttons are to accent the lower sleeve area. You will place three buttons on the ribbed section of the sleeve, along the outer edge. Center them down the vertical rib, placing one in the center, and 1 on each side of center, about midway between the center and the top and bottom of the ribbed section of the sleeve. Repeat on other side with the other 2 buttons to finish. Secure all with sewing needle and thread.
Il modello è molto bello ma sarebbe carino avere le spiegazioni anche per altre taglie.
Grazie.
I have a 36″ bust. I might try this using a larger hook and/or thicker yarn and see if it fits. I’m also wondering how much the recommended yarn stretches and if a different aran-weight yarn might yield a larger result. Of course, I’m only concerned about making it one or two sizes larger. Please, Ms. Lynn – could you give us some suggestions on enlarging this beautiful pattern?
Hi there! These articles may be helpful to you:
https://www.ilikecrochet.com/daily/beginner-crochet/tips-tutorials-and-abbreviations/making-it-fit-adapting-crochet-patterns-for-plus-sizes-part-1/
https://www.ilikecrochet.com/daily/beginner-crochet/tips-tutorials-and-abbreviations/making-it-fit-adapting-crochet-patterns-for-plus-sizes-part-2/
– Nicola, Editor
It would make sense that this issue would include an article on adjusting the sizing of a sweater.
Pity.
Hi Brenda! You might find these articles helpful:
https://www.ilikecrochet.com/daily/beginner-crochet/tips-tutorials-and-abbreviations/making-it-fit-adapting-crochet-patterns-for-plus-sizes-part-1/
https://www.ilikecrochet.com/daily/beginner-crochet/tips-tutorials-and-abbreviations/making-it-fit-adapting-crochet-patterns-for-plus-sizes-part-2/
– Nicola, Editor
I am by no means an expert in adjusting sizes, but I have watched many many YouTube videos. Apparently if you measure your bust, you should be able to chain the length of the size on the ruler and adjust that way. Just a suggestion, but seriously, not an expert.
wife loves this. Any idea on making slightly larger?
So very sad this lovely sweater is only in a 34 inch chest very disappointed. Would love to have been able to make this sweater.
Any suggestions on how to adjust for other chest sizes?
only for a 34 inch chest?? really? I like this pattern but it doesn’t appear to be in my size.