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Maya Espadrilles Sandals

Make your own custom espadrilles sandals by crocheting custom uppers with cotton and linen yarn. Since these fibers lack elasticity, they are perfect for creating a shoe that fits and won’t stretch out. Use leftover yarn from the Maya Mandala Bag to make a perfect match.

Time: 4 Hours Pattern

Skill Level: Easy

Size: Finished foot length 9 (10, 11)” [23 (25.5, 28) cm]

Shown in size 10”

Gauge: 18 sts and 15 rows = 4″ [10cm] in tight Special Single Crochet 2 Together (sp-sc2tog) st with MC.

Materials

Yarn:

Medium weight yarn Garnstudio DROPS Bomull-Lin (53% cotton, 47% linen; 93 yards [85 meters]/50 grams): 03 light beige (MC, 1 ball)

Light weight yarn

Garnstudio DROPS Belle (53% cotton, 33% viscose, 14% linen; 131 yards [120 meters]/50 grams): 04 dandelion (CC1, 1 ball), 13 dark jeans blue (CC3, 1 ball)

Fine weight yarn

Rosários 4 Paillettes (100% polyester; 150 yards [137 meters]/25 grams): 01 (CC2, 1 ball)

Hook:US size E/4 (3.5 mm)

Notions: Tapestry needle, safety pins, linen/flax waxed or some other heavy cotton thread, 2 yards of 1/6” cotton cord.

Special Stitches

Puff stitch (puff st): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo again and draw a lp through] 5 times, yo and draw through all 11 lps on the hook, ch 1.

Special Single Crochet 2 Together (sp-sc2tog): Insert hook in last st worked, yo, pull up a lp (2 lps on hook), insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a lp (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook. This variation of the classic sc2tog will allow you to keep the same number of sts in the row/round.

Pattern Notes

The top and heel are worked flat, making a curved form to adjust the foot shape. Both are sewn to the sole using a linen/flax waxed thread, and then tied together with a cotton cord.

To better adapt to your foot shape, toes are rounded by a sc row. You can increase the number of these sc rows and even use hdc or dc in some parts to allow for a better fit. Use the gauge and measure your foot circumference, rather than the length to decide which size to make. Length is mainly needed to get the right sole size.

Although the yarn suggested should not stretch too much, I recommend to pass the thread used to join the toe to the sole through the upper part of the toe to prevent further stretching.

Chains at the beginning of rows do not count as sts.

If you cannot find jute soles, flip-flop rubber soles can be an alternative. You just need to poke holes on the sole before adding toes and heels.

Pattern

Toe (make 2)

With MC, ch 19 (21, 23).

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch, turn. (19 (21, 23) sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sp-sc2tog to end, sc in last st, turn. (18 (20, 22) sc2togs, 1 sc)

With CC1

Row 3: Ch 2, sk first st, *puff st in next st, sk next st, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, puff st in next st, dc in last st, turn. (9 (10, 11) puff sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, [2 sc in next ch-2 sp] to end, sc in last st, turn. (18 (20, 22) sts)

With CC2

Row 5: Ch 2, *sc in next st, ch 1; rep from * to last st, sc in last st, turn. (18 (20, 22) sts, 17 (19, 21) ch)

Row 6: Skipping ch-1 sps, rep Row 2. (17 (19, 21) sc2togs, 1 sc)

With CC3

Rows 7-8: Rep Row 2.

With CC2

Rows 9-10: Rep Row 2.

With CC1

Row 11: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (18 (20, 22) sc)

Row 12: Ch 2, *puff st in next st, sk next st, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, puff st in next st, dc in last st, turn. (9 (10, 11) puff sts)

With MC

Row 13: Skipping ch-2 sps, rep Row 2. (9 (10, 11) sc2togs, 1 sc)

Rep Row 13 (0, (1, 2) more time(s). Do not cut yarn.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, sl st across the top edge, distribute 14 (15, 16) sc evenly across the left edge, working in row-ends, 19 (21, 23) sc across bottom edge, distribute 14 (15, 16) sc evenly across the right edge row-ends, sl st in first sl st in top edge. Fasten off.

You can adapt the width of the toe by adding more sc rows along left and right edges.

Heel (make 2)

Instructions work for all sizes.

With MC, make magic ring.

Row 1: Ch 1, 5 sc in ring, turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st to end, turn. (10 sts)

With CC1

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn (12 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sp-sc2tog to end, turn. (11 sc2togs)

With CC2

Row 5: Rep Row 3. (13 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, [sc, ch 1, sc] in first st, ch 1, *sc in next st, ch 1; rep from * to last st, [sc, ch 1, sc] in last st, turn. (15 sc)

With CC3

Row 6: Ch 1, 3 sc in first st, skipping ch-1 sps, sc in each sc to last st, 3 sc in last st, turn. (19 sts)

Row 7: Rep Row 4. (18 sc2togs)

With CC2:

Row 8: Rep Row 3. (20 sts)

Row 9: Rep Row 6. (22 sc)

With CC1

Row 10: Rep Row 3. (24 sts)

Row 11: Rep Row 4. (23 sc2togs)

With MC

Row 12: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st. Do not cut yarn. (25 sts)

Rnd 1: With RS facing, 25 sc distributed evenly along the row-ends, sl st in ch 2 from Row 2. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Place the toes and heels on top of the sole. Pin the pieces in place and check that sandals are symmetrical.

Sew pieces to the sole assuring the needle makes an angle from the top to the edge and the sts are deep and close enough to securely tighten the thread.

When sewing the toes, I recommend to start from one of the bottom edges and instead of cutting the thread when reaching the top, pass the thread through the top part of the toe and continue sewing the other edge. That will prevent further stretching on the top toe.

For a classic espadrilles finishing, you can also stitch a blanket st all around the edges of the sole. That may be nice if you use contrast color for the thread. If not, it will be hardly noticed, and this is why I opted to do not add it in the sample shown.

Pass 1 yard cotton cord  through the bottom edge of the toe (between the middle sts) and the upper part of the heel as seen in the sample (although you may find out other ways to tied it up). Knot the edges.

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