Daisy Bloom Pillow

This pillow embraces this bold green inspired by nature with motifs designed to resemble fresh white flower petals that have just exploded in bloom surrounded by motifs that resemble flower buds that are just about to do the same.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: 18” square

Gauge: motif = 2¼” square

Materials

Yarn:

Medium weight yarnScheepjes Bloom (100% Cotton; 87 yards [80 meters]/50grams): 412 Light Fern (A), 11 skeins; 413 Gerbera (B), 1 skein; 423 Daisy (C), 1 skein.

Hook: US size H/8 (5.0 mm)

Notions: Safety pins; tapestry needle; 18” pillow form.

Special Stitches

Sl st dec: Insert hook in last corner sp of motif and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into corner sp of next motif, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), draw this last loop through the other 2 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

It is recommended that the pillow be lined since a white purchased pillow form will show through if using same colors as sample or other dark colors. Sample pillow used approx 5/8-yards green felt to make a simple pillow cover measuring approx 18¼” x 18¼”.

 

A smaller version of this pillow (approx 16” square) can be made with 9 Floral motifs at the center with 40 surrounding Solid motifs. Smaller pillow back would require 49 Solid motifs. Yarn required would be 8 skeins (A), 1 skein (B), 1 skein (C).

Pattern

Solid Motif (make 48 for Front, 64 for Back)

With A, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, work 15 dc in ring, sl st in sp between ch-3 and first dc. Pull magic ring tight.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same sp as join, *dc in next 2 sp (sp refers to the sp between 2 dc), 2 dc in next sp, ch 3**, 2 dc in next sp (corner made); rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of first dc to join.

If needed, pull magic ring tight again. Holding center of motif to keep tightened magic loop in place, gently pull corners of motifs into shape. Motif might still be a little ripply but the next round will correct this.

Rnd 3 (Surface Crochet): Ch 3 (not too tight), remove hook from loop, insert hook from front to back in sp between 2 dc made in first rnd directly below join, grab loop and pull through (keep hook close to surface when yarn is pulled through), *insert hook in next sp between 2 dc, yo, pull yarn through to front and through loop on hook; rep from * until 15 surface crochet sts have been completed. Cut yarn approx 6” long and pull through loop on hook. With tapestry needle, thread needle and insert under first surface crochet made from left to right and then front to back inside st where yarn originates. Fasten off. With tapestry needle, gently pull on the last surface crochet st made so that all sts look the same and have the same tension. Pull motif corners into shape and tighten magic ring one last time if necessary. Weave in ends.

Floral Motif (make 16 for Front)

With B, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, work 15 dc in ring, sl st in sp between ch-3 and first dc. Fasten off. Pull magic ring tight.

Rnd 2: With A, sl st in any sp between 2 dc, ch 3, dc in same sp as join *dc in next 2 sps (sp refers to the sp between 2 dc), 2 dc in next sp, ch 3**, 2 dc in next sp (corner made); rep from * around, ending last rep at **, sl st in top of first dc to join. Fasten off.

Rnd 3 (Petals): With C, sl st in any post made in first rnd (insert hook from front to back and then from back to front around dc made in Rnd 1), *ch 3, dc around next post, ch 3, sl st around next post; rep from * around, ending with sl st in post where first sl st was made (8 petals completed). Fasten off. Pull magic ring tight if needed before weaving in ends.

Note: Petals should be at a slightly tighter tension than the rest of the motif. They should not extend beyond edge of motif. If petals feel too big when joining motifs, gently pull some of the petals toward center of motif. This is an optional step since the petals will contract a little when Front is wet blocked.

Front

Motifs are joined together horizontally one pair at a time to form 8 strips that are 8 motifs long. After the 8 strips are joined tog in the same fashion, the motif strips are then joined vertically.

Note: The only difference in joining is that with the vertical rows, there is a ch-1 between motifs.

Joining Horizontal Rows of Motifs

Place 2 motifs WS tog. With A, *sl st tog corner ch-3 sp, sl st across next 6 sts, sl st in last corner ch-3 sp. Place next 2 motifs WS tog, butting motif pairs up closely, continue across from * until 8 pairs of motifs have been joined. Fasten off.

Continue adding motifs in same fashion until all 64 motifs are joined horizontally. Rows 3-6 will be made up of 2 Solid motifs, 4 Floral motifs, and 2 Solid motifs. All other rows are made with Solid motifs only.

Joining Vertical Rows of Motifs

With WS tog and A, *sl st tog corner ch-3 sp, sl st across next 6 sts, sl st in last corner ch-3 sp**, ch 1 loosely; rep from * to end of row, ending last rep at **. Fasten off.

Continue joining rows in same fashion until all 8 rows have been joined.

Weave in ends. Block 18” square.

Back

Back is made up of 64 Solid motifs following the same instructions for joining as Front of pillow.

Finishing

With WS tog, pin Front to Back. With A, join with sl st in first dc of motif in upper right corner of pillow, sl st in next 5 dc, *sl st in last corner sp of motif, sl st dec (see Special Stitches) in same sp and corner sp of next motif, sl st in same sp, sl st in next 6 dc; rep from * across until corner is reached, sl st in 3 chs of corner; rep from * until 3 sides are joined, insert pillow form and continue across from * ending with sl st in first sl st made in rnd.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Note: The outer row looks best if worked at a much tighter tension than the motifs. yarn ball

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Comments
  • Maria O'Keefe

    Emily-You really should. I have an unfinished one (happens) with a white background and navy centered orange flowers. The white makes the pillow look quilted. It’s so pretty. Thanks for the reminder to git r dun. Glad you like my design. 🙂

    Reply

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