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Oak Sweater

Oak is a square-neck, waist and elbow shaped pullover to move from late winter chilly afternoons to the early spring season. The smooth blend of cashmere, camel, silk and baby alpaca is ideal to wear next to skin, and together with the light mohair provides an unique textured effect.

Time: 40-60 Hour Pattern

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 33 (37, 41, 45, 48)” to fit bust size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)”.

0-1“ positive ease recommended for width.

Shown in size 37”.

Gauge: 24 sts and 16 rows = 4″ [10cm] in esc stitch with MC after blocking.

Materials

Yarns:

Fine weight yarn The Fibre Co Road to China Light (65% alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere); 159 yards [145 meters]/50 grams): RLT170 Riverstone (MC, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) balls), RLT140 Moonstone (CC1, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) balls), RLT050 Agate (CC2, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) balls)

Super fine weight yarn

Katia Concept 50 Mohair Shades (67% mohair, 30% polyamide, 3% wool); 218 yards [200 meters]/20 grams): 11 Very Light Rose (CC3, 1 ball)

 

Hook: US G/6 (4.0 mm), US E/4 (3.5 mm).

Notions: Tapestry needle.

Special Stitches

Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook in designated st, yo, draw up lp, yo, draw through first lp on hook, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.

Extended single crochet 2 sts together (esc2tog): Insert hook in designated st, yo, draw up lp, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Pattern Notes

The body starts bottom-up in the round until the armhole, where front and back are separated. A similar squared neck is shaped both in the front and in the back and finished with a sl st all around once the shoulders are sewn.

The body begins with a 1 x1 ribbing in CC1, and continues with esc st in MC until the top, alternating stripes in CC3 and CC2 up to the slightly shaped waist.

The set-in sleeves are worked similar to the body, with a slightly shaped elbow.

Left and right sides refer to how the garment is worn on the body.

Chains at the beginning of rounds/rows do not count as sts.

I recommend to work set-up rnds with a larger hook size than the rest of the pattern to avoid stretching the edges.

As opposed to knitting, crochet stretches mainly lengthwise; thus, I suggest to measure the length of your pieces while working to assure your desired final measures, and apply a slight negative ease for the length. If you need to adjust the number of rows, this can be easily done in the upper part of the pieces.

For the same reason, since the weight of the sleeves may stretch the width of the neck, I recommend to leave the sl st around the neckline to the end (even after blocking), to be able to slightly tight it up, if needed.

Pattern

Hem Ribbing

Set-up Rnd: With CC1 and larger hook, ch 200, (224, 248, 272, 288), sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Change to smaller hook.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3, dc to end, sl st in first st to join, do not turn. (200, (224, 248, 272, 288) sts)

Rnds 2-8: Ch 3, *FPdc, BPdc; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, do not turn.

Body

Rnd 9 (RS): With MC, ch 2, *esc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (100 (112, 124, 136, 144) esc, 100 (112, 124, 136, 144) ch-1 sps)

Rnd 10: Ch 2, *esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn.

Rnds 11-14: Rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 15-20: With CC3, rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 21-22: With CC2, rep Rnd 10.

Rnd 23 (dec): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 8 (8, 8, 16, 16) times, esc2tog over next 2 ch-1 sps (skipping ch-1 sp in between), ch 1; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (180, (202, 224, 258, 272) sts remain)

Rnds 24-32: Rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 33-37: With CC3, rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 38-39: With MC, rep Rnd 10.

Rnd 40 (inc): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 8 (8, 8, 16, 16) times, (esc, ch 1) 2 times in next ch-1 sp; rep to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (200 (224, 248, 272, 288) sts)

Rnds 41-60 (62, 64, 66, 68): Rep Rnd 10.

Separate for front and back:

Front

Set-up Row (RS): Sl st in first 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts for underarm, [esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 41 (45, 49, 53, 55) times, esc in next ch-1 sp, esc in next esc, turn. (84 (92, 100, 108, 112) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last st, turn.

Row 3-6: Rep Row 2.

Shape left neck:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, [ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp] 13 (14, 16, 17,18)  times, esc in next esc, turn. (28 (30, 34, 36, 38) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last esc, turn.

Rows 3-26 (26, 28, 30, 30): Rep Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Shape right neck:

With RS facing, sk next 28 (32, 32, 36, 36) sts for front neck.

Row 1 (RS): Join MC with sl st in next st (a ch-1 sp), ch 2, esc in same st as join, [ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp] 13 (14, 16, 17, 18) times, esc in last st, turn. (28 (30, 34, 36, 38) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first st, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last st, turn.

Rows 3-26 (26, 28, 30, 30): Rep Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Back

With RS facing, sk next 16 (20, 24, 28, 32) sts after end of front for underarm.

Row 1 (RS): Join MC with sl st in next st (a ch-1 sp), ch 2, esc in same st as join, [ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp] 41 (45, 49, 53, 55) times, esc in next esc, turn. (84 (92, 100, 108, 112) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last st, turn.

Rows 3-6: Rep Row 2.

Shape right neck:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, [ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp] 13 (14, 16, 17, 18) times, esc in next esc, turn. (28 (30, 34, 36, 38) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last st, turn.

Rows 3-26 (26, 28, 30, 30): Rep Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Shape left neck:

With RS facing, sk next 28 (32, 32, 36, 36) sts for back neck.

Row 1 (RS): Join MC with sl st in next st (a ch-1 sp), ch 2, esc in same st as join, [ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp] 13 (14, 16, 17, 18) times, esc in last esc, turn. (28 (30, 34, 36, 38) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last esc, turn.

Rows 3-26 (26, 28, 30, 30): Rep Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row..

Sleeve (make 2)

Set-up Rnd: With CC1 and larger hook, ch 60 (60, 66, 72, 78), sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Cuff Ribbing

Change to smaller hook.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3, dc to end, sl st in first st to join, do not turn. (60 (60, 66, 72, 78) sts)

Rnds 2-8: Ch 3, *FPdc, BPdc; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, do not turn.

Sleeve Body

Rnd 9 (RS): With MC, ch 2, *esc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn.

Rnd 10: Ch 2, *esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn.

Rnds 11-14: Rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 15-20: With CC3, rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 21-32: With CC2, rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 33-38: With CC3, rep Rnd 10.

Rnds 39-40: With MC, rep Rnd 10.

Rnd 41 (inc): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, (esc, ch 1) 2 times in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (70, 70, 76, 84, 90) sts)

Rnd 42: Rep Rnd 10.

Rnd 43 (inc): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 6 (6, 5, 6, 5) times, (esc, ch 1) 2 times in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (80 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts)

Rnd 44: Rep Rnd 10.

Rnd 45 (inc): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 7 (7, 7, 7, 6) times, (esc, ch 1) 2 times in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (90 (90, 98, 108, 118) sts)

Rnd 46: Rep Rnd 10.

Sizes 33 (37, 41, 45)” Only:

Rnd 47 (inc): Ch 2, *[esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 7 times, (esc, ch 1) 2 times in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first st to join, turn. (100 (100, 110, 120) sts)

All Sizes:

Rnds 48 (48, 48, 48, 47)-60 (62, 64, 66, 68): Rep Rnd 10.

Shape underarm:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, *esc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * to last st, esc in last st, turn. (100 (100, 110, 120, 118) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, esc in first esc, *ch 1, esc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, esc in last esc, turn.

Rows 3-6 (6, 8, 8, 10): Rep Row 2. Fasten off at end of last row.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Using tapestry needle, sew shoulders and sleeves.

Block to desired dimensions.

Neckline edging:

Using smaller hook, join MC anywhere at neckline and sl st around neckline, tightening it up as needed to stabilize the neckline.

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