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Cailyn Henley Sweater

This crochet version of a classic henley sweater is a comfortable and stylish wear. Working in dolmen style, this project starts at the sleeve cuff, works up the sleeve, across the body, then down the second sleeve.

Time: 4 – 6 week project

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64)” to fit bust 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)” with 2” positive ease

Shown in size M to fit bust 36-38”

Gauge: 16 sts and 8 rows = 4” [10 cm] in whdc

Materials

Medium weight yarnYarn: Hoooked Somen (60% recycled cotton, 40% linen; 180.45 yards [165 meters]/100grams): Color S011 Vaniglia (MC, 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) balls), ColorS023 Color Zucca (CC, 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls)

Hook: US size G/6 (4.0 mm) for sleeve cuffs and US size 7 (4.5mm) or size required to get gauge for main body.

Notions: Markers, tapestry needle, three 1” buttons.

Abbreviations

Whdc – wide half double crochet.

Special Stitches

Wide half double crochet. (Whdc)

A wide half double crochet is worked between the posts of the double crochet of the previous row. The hook is inserted under all three loops of the stitch, rather than under 2 loops of a standard half double crochet stitch. The final stitch is worked between the last stitch of the previous row, and the turning chain.

This technique creates an open stitch look perfect for this garment traditionally made with a loose weave fabric.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked side to side.

Pattern

Cuff for left sleeve

With 4 mm hook or size required and MC Ch 13.

Row 1: Sc into 2nd chain from hook. Sc to end. Ch 1 and turn. (12 sc)

Row 2: Sc back loop only across. Ch 1 and turn. (12 sc)

Repeat row 2: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) more times. Total row count 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62).

Sleeve

Row 1 (RS): With MC, change to 4.5 mm hook or size required, rotate work, and sc into side of each row. Ch 2 and turn. (30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) sc)

Row 2 (WS): With CC, hdc into each stitch. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 3: With CC, whdc into each stitch. Ch 2 and turn. (Note, final whdc will be placed between last stitch and turning chain on this and all following rows).

Row 4: With MC from this point onwards for sleeve, whdc into each stitch. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 5: (Increase row). Whdc into first stitch. 2 whdc into next stitch. Whdc into each stitch to last 2. 2 whdc into next. Whdc into last. Ch 2 and turn (place stitch markers on sides of increase rows to easily keep track of when they are due) (32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 62) sc)

Continue increasing at both ends of every 5th row 8 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10) more times. Ending with 45 (50, 50, 50, 50, 50, 50, 55, 55) rows. (48 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 80, 84) sc)

Continue straight for 5 (2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 3, 3) more rows. Row count 50 (52, 52, 54, 54, 56, 56, 58, 58).

Next 3 rows: 2 whdc in first and last stitch of next 3 rows. Stitch count: 54 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90).

Disconnect yarn and fasten off.

Main body

With MC, ch 50 (50, 50, 52, 52, 52, 54, 54, 54).

Row 1: Wide Hdc across last row of sleeve stitches.  Ch 52 (52, 52, 54, 54, 54, 56, 56, 56).  Turn. (102 (102, 102, 106, 106, 106, 110, 110, 110) chains, 54 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90) whdc)

Row 2: Work into 3rd chain from hook, hdc into each chain, whdc into each whdc across sleeve top, hdc into each chain. Ch 2 and turn. (100 (100, 100, 104, 104, 104, 108, 108, 108) hdc, 54 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 86, 90) whdc)

Row 3: Sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10 (note: The back loop only single crochet stitches for the first and last 10 on this and all subsequent body rows form the rib at the bottom of the sweater. Marking the first and last of these stitches with a stitch marker is helpful in keeping the edges straight) (20 sc tbl, 134 (140, 144, 152, 156, 160, 168, 174, 178) whdc)

Repeat row 3 until 6 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16) rows worked from the start of the body.

Shoulder shaping

Next row: (Increase row) sc tbl 10, whdc 67 (71, 73, 77, 79, 81, 85, 87, 89) (hint, the increase is placed exactly in the middle. You can fold the work in half to identify the middle stitch to confirm your count if this is helpful) 2 whdc into next stitch. Whdc to last 10. Sc tbl 10. (20 sc tbl, 135 (141, 145, 153, 157, 161, 169, 175, 179) whdc)

Next row: Sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Repeat previous 2 rows for shoulder shaping 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times. (20 sc tbl, 137 (143, 147, 157, 160, 164, 172 178, 182 whdc) Row count from start of body:  12 (16, 16, 16, 20, 20, 22, 24, 24)

Sizes 30 (34, 38, 42, -) only

Next 4 (2, 4, 4, -) rows: sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

All Sizes Continue

Row count to start of stripe: 16 (18, 20, 20, 20, 20, 22, 24, 24)

Stripe placement:

Next 2 rows: With CC.  Blosc 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Subsequent 2 rows: With MC. Blosc 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Repeat these 4 rows 1 more time. Row count to neck edge: 24 (26, 28, 28, 28, 28, 30, 32, 32). Includes 2 stripes of contrast colour.

Divide for neck and work across back in MC

Row 1 back: Blosc 10, whdc 68 (71, 73, 78, 79, 81, 84, 88, 89). Ch 2 and turn, leaving remaining stitches unworked.

Row 2 back: Whdc, whdc2tog, whdc to last 10. Sc tbl 10. Ch 1 and turn. Stitch count: 10 sc tbl, 67 (70, 72, 77, 78, 80, 83, 87, 88) whdc.

Row 3 back: Sc tbl 10, whdc to end. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 4 back: Whdc, whdc 2tog, whdc to last 10. Sc tbl 10. Ch 1 and turn. Stitch count: 10 sc tbl, 66 (69, 71, 76, 77, 79, 82, 86, 87) whdc.

Row 5 back: Blosc 10, whdc to end. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 6 back: Wide hdc to last 10, sc tbl 10, ch 1 and turn.

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until 16 (20, 20, 24, 24, 26, 26, 30, 30) rows worked from start of back.

Work row 5 once more.

Next row: (increase row) Whdc, 2 whdc in next st, whdc to last 10. Sc tbl 10. Ch 1 and turn. (10 sc tbl, 67 (70, 72, 77, 78, 80, 83, 87, 88) whdc)

Repeat previous 2 rows once more.

Work row 5. Fasten off yarn and disconnect. (10 sc tbl, 68 (71, 73, 78, 79, 81, 84, 88, 89) whdc)

Work across front in MC

Row 1: Return to last row of main body. Sk worked back section, sk next 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) whdc. Join in next stitch, ch 2 (does not count as stitch), whdc in same stitch. Whdc to last 10.  Sc tbl 10. (sc tbl 10, 53 (56, 58, 59, 63, 65, 68, 70, 73)  

Row 2: Sc 10, whdc to last 3 stitches. Whdc 2 tog, whdc in last stitch. Ch 2 and turn. Stitch count: Sc tbl 10. (10 sc tbl, 52 (55, 57, 50, 62, 64, 66, 69, 70) whdc)

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 9 (11, 11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 16, 16) rows worked from start of front neck shaping. (10 sc tbl, 49 (51, 53, 55, 57, 58, 59, 62, 63) whdc)

Next Row: Blosc 10, whdc to last 20 stitches. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Ch 2 and turn. (10 sc tbl, 29 (31, 33, 35, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43) whdc)

Next row: Whdc to last 10. 10 sc tbl. Ch 1 and turn

Next row: Sc tbl 10, whdc to end, Ch 20 and turn.

Next row: Hdc into 3rd ch from hook, hdc remaining ch sts. Whdc to last 10, 10 sc tbl. (10 sc tbl, 27 (30, 32, 33, 36, 38, 39, 40, 42) whdc)

Increase row: Blosc 10, whdc to last 2 stitches. 2 whdc in next stitch, whdc, ch 2 and turn.  (10 sc tbl, 28 (31, 33, 34, 37, 39, 40, 41, 43) whdc

Next row: Wide hdc to last 10. 10 sc tbl. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) more times.  (10 sc tbl 10, 53 (56, 58, 61, 63, 65, 66, 70, 71) whdc)

Rejoining front and back

Using a separate strand of yarn in mc, attach yarn to top of last row, ch 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20). Sl st to opposite side and fasten off.

Next row: Return to previous row. Sc blo 10, whdc to end of front, hdc across chain stitches, whdc to last 10 stitches on back, sc tbl 10. Stitch count: 157 (163, 167, 177, 180, 184, 190, 198, 200)

Next row: Sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Stripe placement:

Change to cc. Work previous row twice in contrast, twice in mc, twice in cc. Disconnect cc and continue in mc.

Sizes 30 (34, 38, 42, -) only

Next row: Sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Repeat 3 (1, 3, 3) times.

Shoulder shaping

Next row: (decrease row) Blosc 10, whdc 68 (71, 73, 78, 79, 82, 85, 89, 90), whdc 2tog into next 2 st. Whdc to last 10. Sc tbl 10. (20 sc tbl, 136 (142, 146, 156, 159, 163, 169, 176, 179) whdc)

Next row: Sc tbl 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Repeat these 2 rows for shoulder shaping 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) more times. (20 sc tbl, 134 (140, 144, 154, 156, 160, 166, 174, 176) whdc)

Next Row: Blosc 10, whdc to last 10, sc tbl 10.

Repeat this row 6 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16) times. Disconnect yarn and fasten off.

Second sleeve:

Row 1 2nd sleeve: Skip first 50 (50, 50, 52, 52, 52, 54, 54, 54) stitches of body. Join yarn in next stitch with slip stitch and ch 2. Whdc in same stitch. Whdc 2tog over next 2 stitches. Whdc 48 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82). Wide hdc 2tog, whdc, ch 2 and turn. (52 (58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86) whdc)

Row 2: Whdc. Whdc 2tog over next 2 stitches. Whdc to last 3 stitches. Whdc 2tog, whdc, ch 2 and turn. (50 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84) whdc)

Row 3: Repeat row 2. (48 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) whdc)

Row 4: Whdc to end. Ch 2 and turn

Repeat row 4 second sleeve 4 (1, 1, 3, 3, 5, 5, 2, 2) times.

Decrease row: Whdc into first stitch. Whdc 2tog into next 2 stitches. Whdc to last 3 stitches. Whdc 2tog into next 2. Whdc into last. Ch 2 and turn. (46 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts)

Repeat Row 4 2nd sleeve 4 times

Continue decreasing at both ends of every 5th row 8 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10) more times. Stitch count: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60)

Work Row 4 once more.

Stripe placement: Change to cc, and work Row 4 twice

Change to mc. Dc in each stitch across.

Second cuff:

4 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 13

Row 1: Sc into 2nd chain from hook. Sc 11. Slst into first 2 stitches of sleeve. Turn. (12sc.)

Row 2: Sk sl sts, sc blo across. Ch 1 and turn. (12sc.)

Row 3: Sc blo across. Slst into first 2 stitches of sleeve. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 56, 60) rows in total.

Finishing instructions

Join from cuff to hem on both sides by crocheting slip stitches into both sides held together. Alternatively, you can sew them together with a darning needle and mattress stitch. Weave in all ends.

Button band: On left of neck opening for feminine styling, or right for masculine styling, in cc, join yarn with ss at base of button gusset. Sc 20. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2 button band: Sc 20, slst to base of gusset.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more and fasten off

Buttonhole band: On other side of neck opening in cc, join yarn with slst at top of button gusset. Sc 20. Join with slst to base in front of button band and turn.

Row 2: Sc to end, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Buttonhole row: sc 6. Ch 2, sk 2, sc 6, ch 2, sk 2, sc 4. Join to base with slst.

Row 4: Sc into each sc, 2 sc into each ch 2 space

Row 5 and 6: Sc across. Disconnect yarn and fasten off.

Collar: Starting at top of right button placket, sc 6. Sc into top of each row across top to second last row. Sc3tog across last row, corner, and first stitch of side neck. Sc into each stitch up the side neck to second last stitch. Sc3tog over corner sc into top of each row across back, sc3tog across corner, sc into each stitch on side neck, sc3tog on corner, sc into top of each row and 6 sc across top of buttonband. Ch 1 and turn.

Collar row 2: Sc across to end, ch 1 and turn.

Collar row 3: Buttonhole row: Sc 2. Ch 2, sk 2, sc to end. Ch 1 and turn.

Collar Row 4: Sc into each sc, sc 2 into ch 2 sp.

Collar row 5 and 6: Sc across. Disconnect yarn and fasten off.

Placing buttons. Sew 3 buttons for buttonholes on neck opening.

Weave in any remaining ends.

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