Flying Geese Jacket

The geese may be flying south, but you are all set for the crisp fall air with this cozy jacket. A smart two-color pattern of v’s in formation worked side to side in a lofty tweed yarn with excellent drape, works up quickly. Wear it closed with a modern leather clasp, or open for a classic shawl collar.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) Finished Bust Size 33 (36½, 40, 43½, 46½, 50)”

0-2” positive ease recommended, based on closed bust dimension.  When worn double-breasted with clasp at waist, jacket will flare open above and below to create additional ease at bust & hip.

Shown in size S, 36½”

Gauge: 3 horizontal repeats = 5” and 3 vertical repeats = 4.25″ in body pattern stitch after blocking using size I hook.

Materials

Yarn:

Medium Weight Yarn Knit Picks City Tweed Aran/HW (55% Merino Wool, 25% Superfine Alpaca, 20% Donegal Tweed; 164 yards [150 meters]/100 grams): C108 Jacquard (MC), 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) balls; C107 Tahitian Pearl (CC), 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) balls

Hook: US size I/9 (5.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Removable markers; tapestry needle; one Jul Designs “Lock Toggle Leather Closure”, Chestnut Brown www.juldesigns.com

Abbreviations

Back Bar Half-double crochet (bbhdc): half-double crochet worked in the back bar, (also called 3rd loop) of a stitch. The back bar is found when looking at the back side of a row of hdc, lying horizontally under the top loop. (Diagram of back bar may be helpful)

Special Stitches

2-color Slanted Shell

With MC, ch multiple of 4 sts +3

Row 1: With MC, work 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * across row to last 3 ch, sk 2 ch, sc in last ch, drop MC.

Row 2: Do not turn, join CC in top of turning ch at beg of Row 1, ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in each of next 3 dc, sc in next sc, ch 2; rep from * across row, sc in each of next 3 dc, sc in last sc, drop CC.

Row 3: Change to MC, ch 3, turn, 3 dc in first sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, sc in last sc, drop MC.

Row 4: Do not turn, inset hook in top of turning ch at beg of Row 3, with CC pull up a lp, ch 1, sc in same st, *sc in each of next 3 dc, sc in next sc, ch 2; rep from * across, sc in each of next 3 dc, sc in last sc, drop CC.

Rep Rows 3-4 for pattern.

Row 5 (edge row): (This row must follow a Row 2 or Row 4.) Change to MC, ch 2, turn, (hdc, 2 dc) in first st; *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked side-to-side in two colors starting at the right front and working around the body in one piece. Sleeves are likewise worked side-to-side, first increasing then decreasing row length for shaping. Pieces are blocked before seaming, then cuff, bottom ribbing, and a shawl collar are added directly to the piece using hdc ribbing in the back bar/third loop.

To change color in bbhdc ribbing, on last stitch of old color, yo, draw up a loop in next st, drop old color to front of work, pick up new color from behind, yo, draw through 3 lps on hook, lift old color up behind hook, yo with new color for next st, catching old color behind hook in yo.

In bbhdc ribbing, turning ch-2 does not count as a stitch.

Pattern

Body

Right Front
With MC, ch 63 (63, 67, 67, 67, 71)

Row 1 (RS for sizes XS, S, and 2XL, WS for sizes M, L, and XL): Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 1 – 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 17) shells at the end of this row.

Row 2: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2.

Row 3: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 3.
Row 4: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 4.

Rows 5-8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 12): Rep Rows 3-4, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) times.

Fasten off CC.

Right Armhole Shaping

Row 1: Change to MC, ch 2, work (hdc, 2 dc) in first st; *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) times, (sc, ch 2 place marker in 2nd ch, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) ‘edge’ shells, plus 10 standard shells at the end of this row.

Row 2: Do not turn, joining CC with sl st in marked ch, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Rows 3-8 (12, 12, 12, 16, 16): Rep 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Rows 3-4, 3 (5, 5, 5, 7, 7) times.  Fasten off CC.

Back

Row 1: Change to MC, ch 23 (23, 27, 27, 27, 31), work 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) times, sc in last ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 17) shells at the end of this row.

Row 2: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Rows 3-32 (32, 36, 40, 40, 44): Rep 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Rows 3-4, 15 (15, 17, 19, 19, 21) times.

Fasten off CC.

Left Armhole Shaping

Repeat Right Armhole Shaping.

Left Front

Row 1: Rep Back Row 1.

Row 2: Rep Back Row 2.

Rows 3-8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 12): Rep 2- color Slanted Shell pattern Rows 3-4, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) times.

Fasten off CC.

Row 9 (9, 11, 11, 11, 13): Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 5.

Fasten off MC.

Block Body to schematic dimensions. With RS together, sew shoulder seams. With RS of Back facing, join MC at right edge of back collar, at end of right shoulder seam. Sc evenly across row ends, 5 sc per each ‘V’ repeat, sc in last st before left shoulder seam – 21 (21, 21, 26, 26, 26) sc at end of this row.

Fasten off MC.

Bottom Ribbing

Row 1: With RS facing, working along entire lower edge, join MC with a sc in right corner, sc evenly across bottom edge, 5 sc per each ‘V’ repeat, sc in last st – 81 (91, 101, 106, 116, 126) sc at end of this row.

Row 2: Working perpendicular to body, ch 13, turn, sk next 2 ch, hdc in each ch across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next sc – 11 hdc at end of this row.

Row 3: Turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next 2 sc.

Row 5: Turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row.

Row 6: Ch 2, turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next sc.

Rep Rows 3-6 across bottom edge, ending with a Row 3 or Row 5. Do not fasten off.

Collar

Row 1: Continuing with MC and working up left edge of jacket, ch 21 (21, 21, 27, 27, 27), change to CC in last ch, ch 4 with CC, sk next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 CC ch, change to MC in 2nd st (see pattern notes for color change), hdc in each ch across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next sc – 23 (23, 23, 29, 29, 29) hdc this row.

Row 2: Turn, bbhdc in next 21 (21, 21, 27, 27, 27) hdc, change to CC in last st, bbhdc in last 2 sts.

Row 3: Ch 2, turn, bbhdc in next 2 sts, change to MC in 2nd st, bbhdc to end of row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next 2 sc.

Row 4: Turn, bbhdc in next 21 (21, 21, 27, 27, 27) hdc, change to CC in last st, bbhdc in last 2 sts.

Row 5: Ch 2, turn, bbhdc in next 2 sts, change to MC in 2nd st, bbhdc to end of row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next sc.

Rep Rows 2-5 up edge of bottom ribbing. At jacket body, rep Rows 4-5 up left front, across back neck, and down right front. At bottom ribbing, rep Rows 2-5, ending with a Row 2 or Row 4.  Fasten off MC and CC.

Sleeve (make 2)

Sizes XS, S only

Row 1 (WS): With MC, ch 27 (31), work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 1 – 6 (7) shells at end of this row.

Row 2: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Sizes: M, L, XL only

Row 1 (RS): With MC, ch 19 (19, 23), work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 1 – 4 (4, 5) shells at end of this row.

Row 2: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2.

Fasten off CC.

Row 3: Change to MC, ch 15 (15, 15), turn, 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * once more, sc in last ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 7 (7, 8) shells at end of this row.

Row 4: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Size 2XL only

Row 1 (WS): With MC, ch 15, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 1 – 3 shells at end of this row.

Row 2: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Row 3: With scrap of MC, join in top of turning ch of Row 1, ch 8, fasten off scrap MC, pick up working MC, ch 3, turn, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 3 across to new ch sts, sc in last sc, at new ch 3 dc in first ch, *sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in last ch, drop MC – 5 shells at end of this row.

Row 4: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 4, fasten off CC.

Row 5: Change to MC, ch 15 (15, 15), turn, 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * once more, sc in last ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, sc in last sc, drop MC – 8 shells at end of this row.

Row 6: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

All Sizes

Row 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7): With scrap of MC, join in top of turning ch of Row 1 (1, 3, 3, 3, 5), ch 12, fasten off scrap MC, pick up working MC, ch 3, turn, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 3 across to new ch sts, sc in last sc, at new ch sts 3 dc in first ch, *sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * once more, sc in last ch, drop MC – 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11) shells at end of this row.

Row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8): Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 4, fasten off CC.

Row 5 (5, 7, 7, 7, 9): Change to MC, ch 15 turn, 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * once more, sc in last ch, ch 2, 3 dc in next sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across, sc in last sc, drop MC – 12 (13, 13, 13, 14, 14) shells at end of this row.

Row 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10): Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Rows 7-28 (7-28, 9-34, 9-34, 9-34, 11-40): Rep 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Rows 3-4, 11 (11, 13, 13, 13, 15) times.

Fasten off CC.

Row 29 (29, 35, 35, 35, 41): Change to MC, ch 2, hdc in first st, 2 dc in next st; *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, (sc, ch 2, place marker in 2nd ch, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 3 ‘edge’ shells, plus 9, (10, 10, 10, 11, 11) shells at the end of this row.

Row 30 (30, 36, 36, 36, 42): Do not turn, joining CC with sl st in marked ch, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Row 31 (31, 37, 37, 37 ,43): Change to MC, ch 3, turn, 3 dc in first sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 4, (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) times, *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, sc in last sc, drop MC – 6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8) shells, 3 edge shells at end of this row.

Row 32 (32, 38, 38, 38, 44): Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 4, fasten off CC.

Sizes XS, S only

Row 33: Change to MC, turn, sl st in next 11 st from Row 31, sl st in next st from Row 32, ch 2, (hdc, 2 dc) in same st; *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from *across row, sc in last sc, fasten off MC – 6 (7) edge shells at end of this row.

Sizes M, L, XL only

Row 39: Change to MC, turn, sl st in next 11 st from Row 37, sl st in next st from Row 38, ch 2, (hdc, 2 dc) in same st, *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, (sc, ch 2, place marker in 2nd ch, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 3 ‘edge’ shells, plus 4 (4, 5) shells at the end of this row.

Row 40: Do not turn, join CC with sl st in marked ch, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, fasten off CC.

Row 41: Change to MC, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 5, fasten off MC – 4 (4, 5) edge shells at end of this row.

Size 2XL only

Row 45: Change to MC, turn, sl st in next 11 st from Row 43, sl st in next st from Row 44, ch 2, (hdc, 2 dc) in same st, *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, (sc, ch 2, place marker in 2nd ch, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * across row, sc in last sc, drop MC – 3 ‘edge’ shells, plus 5 shells at the end of this row.

Row 46 Do not turn, join CC with sl st in marked ch, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 2, drop CC.

Row 47: Change to MC ch 3, turn, 3 dc in first sc, *(sc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, *(sc, hdc, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * once more, sc in last sc, drop MC – 3 shells, 2 edge shells at end of this row.

Row 48: Work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 4, fasten off CC.

Row 49: Change to MC, work 2-color Slanted Shell pattern Row 5, fasten off MC – 3 edge shells at end of this row.

All sizes

Block sleeve to schematic dimensions before working cuff.

Cuff

Row 1: With RS facing and at cuff edge, join MC with sc in right corner, sc evenly across bottom edge, 5 sc per each ‘V’ repeat, sc in last st – 31 (31, 36, 36, 36, 41) sc at end of this row.

Row 2: Working perpendicular to sleeve, ch 13, turn, sk next 2 ch, hdc in each ch across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next 2 sc – 11 hdc at end of this row.

Row 3: Turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row.

Row 4: Ch 2, turn, bbhdc in each hdc across row, join with sl st in next sc along body, sl st in next 2 sc.

Rep Rows 3-4 across bottom edge, ending with a Row 3. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing sleeve seam.

Finishing

Set sleeves into armholes. Sew underarm sleeve seam.  Weave in ends.  Attach clasp per manufacturer’s directions with slot half of clasp on left front and aligned where collar meets body at natural waist. Attach snap half of clasp on right front at edge of collar at natural waist.yarn ball

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